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Ladakh
Ladakh one of the districts of the Jammu & Kashmir state, lies
in the north of Kashmir bordering Tibet, 434 Kms from
Srinagar. It has two Distinct Sub divisions of Kargil and Leh,
each with its own characteristics both inchime and clan. While
Kargil is awfully cold, with Dras being the coldest in -
habited village in the world, leh is the mildest with almost
no snowfall worth the name.
Once an Independent monarchy of 117000 square Kilometers
(45,000 sq. miles) about 11,555 ft above sea level. Ladakh was
divided between India and Pakistan is 1947 ended the high
plains of Aksai chin had been annexed by china. It is also
known as small Tibet " Among the main attractions in Ladakh
are the Buddhist monasteries and Gumpas.
Leh's prosperity, m anaged
mainly by the Sunni Muslim merchants whose descendants live in
its labyrinthine old quarter, came to an abrupt end with the
closure of the Chinese border in the 1950's. One after the
Indo-Pak wars of 1965 and 1971, when India rediscovered the
hitherto forgotten capital's strategic value, did its fortunes
begin to look up. Today, Khaki-clad Jawans (soldiers) and
their families from the nearby military and air force bases
are the mainstay of the local economy in winter, when foreign
visitors are few and far between.
Welcoming Tourists
Undoubtedly the most radical shake-up, however, ensued from
the Indian government's decision in 1974 to open Ladakh to
foreign tourists. From the start, Leh bore the brunt of the
annual invasion, as busloads of backpackers poured up the road
Srinagar. Twenty or so years on, though the main approach is
now via Himachal Pradesh rather than Kashmir, the summer
influx shows no sign of abating.
Leh is doubled in size and is a far cry from the sleepy
Himalayan town of the early 1970's. During July and August
tourists stroll shoulder to shoulder down its main street,
most of whose old style outfitters and provision stores have
been squeezed out by Kashmiri handicraft shops, art emporiums
and Tibetan restaurants.
The Town Attractions
Leh has nonetheless retained a more tranquil side, and is a
pleasant place to unwind after a long bus journey. Attractions
in and around the town itself include the former Palace and
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, perched amid strings of prayer flags
above the narrow dusty streets of the Old Quarter.
A short walk north across the fields, the small monastery of
Sankar harbours accomplished modern Tantric murals and a
thousand beaded Avalokitesvara (also spelt as Avalokiteshvara)
deity.
Leh is also a good base for longer day trips out into the
Indus Valley. Among the string of picturesque villages and
Gompas within reach by bus are Shey, site of a derelict 17th
century palace, and the Spectacular Tikse Gompa. Until one has
adjusted to the altitude, however, the Only sightseeing one
will probably feel up to will be from a guesthouse roof
terrace or garden, from where the snowy summits of the
majestic Stok-Kangri massif (6,120m), magnified in the crystal
clear Ladakhi sunshine, look close enough to touch.
LEH
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Sankar
Gompa
This is small but more interesting place to visit than the Leh
Gompa and can easily be visited on foot. The Sankar Gompa is
an under Gompa of Spitok Gompa. At the most only 20 monks live
here and few are permanently in residence although the
monastery itself is fairly active. Thus the Gompa is only open
to the public from 7.00 am to 10.00 am and from 5.00 to 7.00
pm. It is, however, well lit, so an evening visit is
worthwhile. At these times the monks will welcome the visitors
and may offer one yak butter tea, 'Tsampa' and boiled and
spiced mustard plant.
Leh Palace
The old palace of the kings of Ladakh overlooks the town from
the southwest slope of the Tsemo hill. It has eight storeys
and was built by King Sengge Namgyal in the 16th century, at
much the same time as the famed Potala of Lhasa - which it
resembles. The damage to the palace, one side is gaping open,
stems from the Kashmiri invasions of the last century. Like
the Shey palace the Leh palace still belongs to the Ladakhi
royal family, who now live in their palace in Stok.
Leh Gompa
The Leh Gompa stands high above the palace and also overlooks
the ruins of the older palace of the King of Tagpebums. The
Red Gompa also known as Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was built in 1430
by King Gvags-Pa-Bum-Ide and has a fine three-storey high
seated Buddha figure flanked by Avalokitesvara on the right
and Manjushri on the left. In all there are three Gompas at
the top of the hill, the topmost one is in a very ruined
condition but offers extremely fine views over Leh and the
surrounding countryside. To the right of the palace one can
see a Buddha painted on the rocks
Shanti
Stupa
A relatively new addition to the rocky skyline around Leh
is the toothpaste white Shanti Stupa above Changspa village,
3-km west of the bazaar. Inaugurated in 1983 by the Dalai
Lama, the "Peace Pagoda", whose sides are decorated
with gilt panels depicting episodes from the life of the
Buddha, is one of several such monuments erected around India
by a "Peace Sect" of Japanese Buddhists
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