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About
20 Km south-east of Rangdum stands the Panzila axis, across
which lies Zanskar, the most isolated of all the
trans-Himalayan valleys. The Penzila pass (4,401m) is a
picturesque tableland surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of Penzi-la to
the head of the Stod valley, the majestic " Drang-Drung"
glacier looms into full view. A long and winding river of ice
and snow, "Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest
glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is from
the cliff-like snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod
or Doda tributary of the Zanskar River rises.
Zanskar is a tri-armed valley system situated between the
Great Himalayan Range and the Zanskar mountains, the three
arms radiating star-like towards the west, north and south
from a wide central expanse. Here the Zanskar River comes into
being by the confluence of its two Himalayan tributaries, the
Stod/Doda and the Lingti-Tsarap rivers. It is mainly along the
course of this valley system that the region’s approximately
14,000 strong, mainly Buddhist population, live.
In and Around
Rangdum
Rangdum is situated almost halfway between Kargil and Padum
and was founded in the 18th Century by Losang Geleg Yeshe
Drogpa. The Dukhang or assembly hall holds many beautiful
statues. There is a great statue of Buddha in the small temple
just behind.
Sani
This is believed to be the oldest Ka-ni-ka (named after the
former king of Kashmir) Gompa in Zanskar. Unlike most in
Ladakh and Zanskar, this Gompa is built like a castle in the
village on flat ground, and involves no steep climbs, and so
is more welcoming then the average Gompa. There is an
impressive prayer room, full of Buddhist statues and plenty of
frescoes and Thankas to delight. There is also a famous stone
carving of the Maitreya Buddha on a large rock near the Gompa.
Padum
Padum is the ad ministrative
headquarters of the Zanskar region, but was once an ancient
capital with very light population of Buddhist and Suni
Muslim. Padum itself has little to offer, but serves as a good
base for exploring near by villages, monasteries and treks.
Tagrimo
Situated in Padum plain, is a Kagyupa monastery with about 30
resident monks. It was built in the 17th century. Among the
paintings one can recognize Nawang Namgyal, founder of the
Bhutanese theocracy.
Pipting
Is the north east of Padum. Stupa and a few buildings,
including a temple are above the village. The temple has
pictures of Avalokeshvara with eleven heads, Padmasambhava,
Maitreya, as well as Vajrabhairava and Tsong Khapa. The last
two indicate that this monastery belongs to Gelupa
tradition.
Karsha
This is one of the most important Gompa in Zanskar, dating
back to about the 11th century, and belonging to the Gelukpa
order. A large white complex housing over one hundred monks,
the Karsha Gompa holds pujas, often different from those in
Ladakh, we should be witnessed, if possible. The three day
Gustor festival held in July or August each year is
particularly spectacular. There is also a five hundred year
old nunnery.
Thonde
On the way to Zangla is the gompa at Thonde, nearly 20 km from
Padum. With about 50 monks of the Gelukpa order, Thonde is now
the second largest gompa in Zanskar, after the one at Karsha.
The village of Tsazar, half a between Thonde and Zangla, also
has an impressive gompa.
Zangla
The road continues past Tsazar to the village and gompa at
Zangla, which belongs to the Drukpa. It is also where the king
of Zanskar has his castle. Zangla is 35 km from Padum, and can
be included in one of a few three or four day trek around the
area. There is a small nunnery near by which is also worth
exploring.
Bardan
The remote gompa at Bardan is about 12 km south of Padum, on
the trekking route to Darcha. It belongs to the Drukpa order,
and was built in 17th century.
Muni
Is upstream from Bardan with in 2 1/2 hours walking distance.
The monastery houses a small community of Gelupa monks. The
murals have been repainted recently and portray subjects
particularly venerated by Tsong Khapa's disciples, such as
Yamantaka and the protector Chukden.
Zongkul
Two caves associated with the great Indian master Naropa (10
century) are the oldest religious center within the monastery.
Two temples were built over the first cave with the monastery
around. Temple walls are hung with beautiful Thankas.
unfortunately, there are only faint traces of the paintings
which embellished the first cave, but Naropa's footprints are
there. The second cave is above the monastery and houses
statues of Naropa and Vajradhara.
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